I was delighted to escape the rain forest to spend November 2021 in Lisbon.
My previous visit in 1982 was just after the overthrow of the fascist dictatorship. Like Franco in Spain, Salazar had ruled Portugal for almost 50 years. The 1974 Revolution of Carnations ushered in democracy and ended the Colonial Wars with Portugal’s African colonies.
Among the democratic reforms, education became mandatory for the first time—to Grade 4. I had studied Portuguese before arriving in 1982 thus I had the ability to speak to the locals . Pleasant as they were, I found the people generally uneducated. For example I recall trying to explain to a young man, 23, what a crocodile was – he had never heard of such things. It’s much more convenient for dictators and demagogues to keep their people uneducated.
Fast forward. Since joining the EU in 1986 the Portuguese have moved forward by leaps and bounds! It was delightful to visit a country which has obviously improved so greatly!
I repeatedly heard about Erasmus grants offered by the European Commission enabling Portuguese students to study abroad. Portugal is a testament to the enormous benefits of membership in the European Union.
I found it wonderful to be back in Europe, free of the endless news cycle of political strife in the USA. Also very safe and sophisticated. (No looking over my shoulder while walking at night. Starbucks sells takeout Salade Nicoise! 🙂 The Portuguese seem to lack a sense of entitlement so are generally kind and helpful. Most speak English but humoured me by speaking Portuguese.
Lisbon has a population of 600,000 – Portugal 10.5 million (compared to 45 million in Spain) It is set on the mouth of the Tagus River which transects the country and empties into the Atlantic. Lisbon was home to Henry the Navigator (born in 1396, his mother was English – long-standing allies of the Portuguese)
Prince Henry was renowned for his school of navigation and exploration. Graduates included cartographers such as Vasco de Gama – first to navigate Cape Horn and Ferdinand Magellan- first to circumnavigate the world.
Henry the Navigator sponsored many voyages of discovery and is thus known as the patron of the Age of Discovery. Less illustriously, he is known as Father of the African slave trade. The riches of that age and fruits of the slave trade are still visible — Lisbon has fabulous monuments and architecture. It’s sidewalks are made up of small pieces of white limestone frequently interspersed with black rocks to create beautiful patterns . In modern times, EU investment has been poured into the infrastructure to create a fabulous metro system, roads and transportation systems.
I spent 3 weeks relearning Portuguese in a local language school- with wonderful instructors. 80% of the Portuguese vocabulary is identical to Spanish however the pronunciation, grammar and cadence are different which makes it confusing. There are also many “false friends“ (as we linguists call them). For example “estou constipado” literally means “I’m constipated”. This may seem like too much information however in Portuguese it simply means “my nose is plugged”.
Through the language school, The Portuguese connection, I enjoyed a home stay with Joana and her 13 year old son. Soon after my arrival they left to isolate in their country home after her son’s pal came down with Covid. This coincided with my son’s visit from Spain so he and I had Joana’s apartment to ourselves for 4 days – really central and convenient!
I enjoyed several late night meals with Joana and friends or family. One evening, Joana’s friend Alvaro, explained some Portuguese history. Apparently when Napoleon was about to invade, the Portuguese king simply moved his entire court, lock, stock and barrel to Rio de Janeiro, remaining there for 15 years—he did not want to come home! The king wanted to change Rio to the capital of Portugal!
Another night Joana’s mother, recounted how back in the early 1970s she used to smuggle dissidents and draft dodgers across the border to Spain. Portugal had spent many years at war with former colonies Angola & Mozambique. After they made peace in 1976, the former colonies achieved independence and 1 million Portuguese “retornados” came back to Portugal.
As for Covid concerns, Portugal had a 90% double vaccination rate which initially made it safe – until the rest of the Europeans and Africans arrived. Case rates climbed and I returned to Canada just as Omicron appeared.
Meantime I had lots of fun mingling with the Irish, French, Bretons, Germans, Dutch and a few “visible minority” Americans. Always interesting! My language school pal Ellie, originally from Romania, now a doctor in Arizona, was learning Portuguese as her sixth language. Many European visitors were on brief holidays so very open to others. Sitting at a wine bar, restaurant or Fado bar I often became friends with the folks at the adjoining tables. Thus I fell in with two Irish couples for a few nights of laughter.
My plans are still on hold for travel this coming year but I’m very open to returning to winter in Portugal, Covid willing!
