I’ve been walking the Dingle Peninsula for 3 days now and I’m spending a day in recovery in Dingle, a charming seaside town. The biggest challenge with walking day after day is the feet -it’s easy to develop blisters if one is not careful. In my case my legs are also exhausted! When I arrived from walking 39,000 steps yesterday, I took off my shoes, lay on top of the bed and immediately fell asleep.
I’ve been walking mostly alone – something I would never do in the Canadian woods however there is a distinct absence of mountain lions, bears and scary strangers in these parts. And there are other walkers, at different paces so we occasionally cross paths.
There was some mud on the path yesterday so I crossed into the adjoining field of heifers, trying to show I came in peace by singing “The Happy Wanderer”. Not sure about the heifers but it me feel better anyway.
There are no Portapotties nor any outhouses along the way so, from time to time, I have to use my best backwoods crouch. Each time, it reminds me of a Scottish friend’s story. Her sister lives in a lighthouse near Aberdeen (Tod lighthouse, I believe). Their various siblings bought it and the sister is living there and refurbishing it.
One day the sister went out walking with her friend, who is involved in the environmental movement. These two were in the dunes near the Trump Golf course when the sister crouched down behind a dune to relieve herself. ( Note: In the UK there is free right of passage by pedestrians throughout the country – it is a walking nation. )
That night, about 10 pm, there was a knock at the door. Police handed the sister a ticket for having urinated in public or something to that effect. Apparently Trump’s men had photographed her with a long range camera.
Needless to say, there was great controversy before the judge finally threw out the charge.
Imagine winning a pissing contest with Trump? 🙂
Back to the botanical gardens at Kilmacurragh – another interesting tree was the Common yew which was the source of wood for long bows – a principal weapon before firearms. Apparently English kings, including Henry VIII, passed laws requiring men to practise archery on Sundays.
The 1000 acre garden was surrounded by a ha ha – a sunken fence or ditch to keep out deer, livestock and vehicles without creating any visual obstruction. (Think of a triangular shaped moat without water or crocodiles). It creates a sunken barrier while permitting an uninterrupted view of the landscape. I’d consider installing one at home however I’d have no property left 🙂
This Dingle trail leads through agricultural fields, up and down rolling hills, past the sea.
Tomorrow I’ll walk again before heading back to Dublin for the weekend. I’ll be staying with Irish friends then visiting with Ryan who was a long term trainer for Lachie and me. He is coming for a weekend reunion.
We have not seen each other in ten years so it will be a great reunion! He’s now a house husband and father with two young sons living in Amsterdam. His body was used as the model for the Terry Fox memorial in Vancouver i.e. he’s really buff – he’ll be running the Berlin marathon next week. Meantime the effects of his 10 year absence are apparent on me but I’m making a comeback!
Is this current letter really a travelogue? Well, let me comment on the Irish pubs – it feels sort of like being in a PBS replay of a UK television serial – all types of unusual faces and bodies with Irish or English accents. (With Ryan Air it’s very easy and cheap for the Brits to fly in. And they do! )
In the previous town where I stayed, Anascul, I visited the South Pole pub, originally the home of Tom Crean, the Irish adventurer who was part of the three Shackleton expeditions to the South Pole. I bought a T-shirt featuring his face to help me inspire vicarious respect in the gym.
Well folks, that’s enough of my rambling. I’ll actually have to get moving.
Hasta La Vista!
